Smith’s Brasserie - Ongar

5:03pm Wednesday 10th September 2008

NO wonder its car park gets crammed to overflowing most nights, such is the reputation of Smith’s Brasserie.

And, I guess, if it is good enough for David Beckham and various other celebrities, then it must be more than good enough for me.

Pricey but delightful is probably the best way to describe an evening at the Ongar restaurant which has been welcoming diners – at lunchtimes and evenings – for 14 years.

We arrived early and found the tables adorned with crisp linen tablecloths and napkins and the place awash with staff wearing equally crisp jackets and aprons.

Nothing is too much trouble as the staff show you to your table, take your drink order, and are on hand to discuss any queries about the menu.

I must admit this was not my first visit to Smith’s – and I hope it will not be my last.

The restaurant prides itself on its motto ‘Famous for Fish’.

Well it is also famous, as far as I am concerned, for its caramelised chicken livers (£7), with mushrooms, onion and balsamic syrup, which I chose for my starter.

Portions are generous, so perhaps my comment that it is “pricey” should be replaced with “good value for money”.

The main issue I had was having to make so many decisions during the evening!

Apart from choosing from the wide selection of starters there is the main course – and if you opt for fish instead of a meat dish (and there are plenty of them too) you have to decide whether you want your fish fried in batter or matzo meal, plain grilled or floured then shallow fried in butter (meunière).

Decisions, decisions...

Side orders (£3 to £5 each) can add considerably to the bill, but our waitress readily admitted that each portion was large enough to share.

For my main course I went for the fillet of Atlantic cod (£16.50). Fish and chips? Yes, but this was to be no ordinary fish and chips.

The portion was large and with shared side orders of mushy peas, cauliflower cheese and chips it was still almost too much to get through.

Then came yet another difficult decision.

I had whittled down the selection of ice cream and desserts (£5 or £6) to hot melting chocolate cake with mint choc chip ice-cream (£6) or white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake (£6). I went for the cheesecake.

By now the place was buzzing and those staff who a couple of hours earlier had been standing around were dashing efficiently and effectively here and there.

The food is well-cooked, well presented – and simply delicious.

Smith’s Brasserie is probably a place for that special occasion. I’m just looking through my diary to find a reason why I can go there again.

SMITH’S BRASSERIE
Fyfield Road,
Ongar,
CM5 OAL

TEL: 01277 365578